The Climent Respect your roots, Protect your planet
Introduction
Composting is the natural process of decomposition or rotting of organic matter with the help of microorganisms under organized conditions. Raw organic matters for example, crop residues, food garbage, animal wastes, suitable industrial wastes and, municipal solid wastes, enhance their appropriateness for application to the soil as a fertilizer source, after undergoing composting.
It is a rich source of organic matter. Soil organic matter plays a vital role in sustaining soil fertility, and hence enhancement of agricultural production. In addition, as a source of plant nutrients, it improves the biological and physico-chemical properties of the soil.
As a result of these enhancements, the soil:
- Becomes more resilient to stresses such as diseases, drought, and toxicity;
- Help the crop in better uptake of plant nutrients; and
- Possesses an active nutrient cycling capability because of dynamic microbial activity.
These advantages are evident themselves in higher crop yields, reduced cropping risks, and lower expenses on inorganic fertilizers for farmers.
Types of Composting
On the basis of decomposition procedures, it can be divided into two categories. Decomposition occurs in the absence or limited amount of Oxygen is called anaerobic composting. Under this process, anaerobic microorganisms rule and develop intermediate compounds such as methane, hydrogen sulphide, organic acids, and other substances. In the absence of oxygen, these compounds gather and are not metabolized further.
Many of such compounds have strong smells and some present phytotoxicity. As this type is a low-temperature process, it doesn’t decompose weed seeds and pathogens. Furthermore, the process usually takes longer time than aerobic type. These disadvantages often offset the advantages of this process.
In the presence of sufficient Oxygen, aerobic composting takes place. In this procedure, aerobic microorganisms produce relatively stable organic end products such as carbon dioxide (CO2), water, ammonia, humus, and heat by breaking down organic matter. Though this type may produce intermediate compounds like, organic acids, aerobic micro-organisms decompose them more. The end product, with its relatively unstable form of organic matter, has a slight risk of phytotoxicity.
The heat generated hastens the breakdown of fats, proteins, and complex carbohydrates for example cellulose and hemicellulose. Hence, it takes less time to process. Likewise, this process abolishes many microorganisms that are harmful to humans or plants, as well as weed seeds. Although more nutrients are lost in this procedure from the organic matter, it is measured as more efficient and useful than anaerobic composting for agricultural production.
It aims may also be accomplished through the enzymatic degradation of organic materials as they go through the digestive system of earthworms. This process is called vermicomposting.
Composting Methods
Traditional backyard composting is typically attained by:
- Open-air method
- Direct Composting Method
Some more recent methods are:
- Tumbler Method
- Worm Farm Method
- EMO Method
- Combination Method
- Commercial Method
- Mechanical Method
Open Air Composting
It is conventionally a pile of green and brown organic matter in the backyard. More frequently than not it is an inlet constructed by anything cheap and easy to put together. Or we might use a couple of upturned bins sitting on the ground. Wire cages are also used enameled with piping around the edges to capture heat and hold water. This can then be used for hot water systems in sustainable situations.
It is normally considered to be a hot composting method. Some people frequently call it cold composting when little quantities of waste are used because it does not build up the same amount of heat. Cold process still produces heat, therefore, it is not technically cold composting.
Direct Composting
It is simply digging a hole or trench in the ground and burying the organic scraps. It is also possibly the oldest and most actual method of composting, but like all other methods, it too has its restrictions.
The key limitation is that it takes a long time to decompose unless you chop everything up. You can only bury fruit and vegetables or you route the risk of it being dug up by all sorts of garden creatures from birds to pests and bugs and you have to keep digging holes. It does, though, produce plenty of worms that then help to nourish the garden and improve soil fertility.
Tumbler Composting
It comes in many shapes and sizes of single to double units that somebody can purchase commercially from a local hardware store or it can be homemade.
For many people, this is a great system if somebody is strongly keen to turn it in every day or every few days. For others, it is hard work especially if they are getting on in years. But it can be a mechanized one that makes turning easier. One normally needs two of these systems so one sits for a few months to fully decompose before emptying it.
This can be the best system if we have a large amount of brown and green waste to dispose of and have enough space to fit this system. But like the bay system, it needs a lot of waste to produce a small amount of soil.
Worm Farm Composting
For many, vermicomposting is the most common and preferred choice of composting because of its ability to grow worms, produce compost and compost tea, and keep rodents like rats, out of the compost. The worms produce forms that are concentrated with nutrients lower in nitrogen compared to other methods. Worm farms can be utilized even if no garden.
Metal containers such as copper must not be used because it leaches out which is toxic for worms. If somebody uses plastic containers they can collect the juice but then we need to fix a tap to drain it off or some way to rotate the containers to collect the worm tea. They need to be retained out of the sun, rain, and frost, and somewhere that’s not too cold either. Worms are unpredictable little creatures and will try and escape from their containers if the conditions are not right and suitable for them. It is necessary to use local worms for the area.
Effective Microorganism (EMO) Composting
It is a system usually used for indoor composting but can be used by anyone who likes this method or perhaps lives in a unit. The most common product using Effective Microorganisms is the Bokashi but other indoor systems can use it and there are some systems that use a carbon filter in the lid as well to filter odors.
Usually, one needs two of these systems, so while one is resting the other is being filled. The juice can be collected for use in the garden.
Combination Composting
It is a combination method of direct, open-air, EMO, and vermicomposting. All the essentials of composting are used and suit most household circumstances. For some people, it too has some challenges but the challenges are less and the rewards are better. You can compost allthe kitchen waste and not just some of it.
So eventually we can have over 50% less waste to put in the bin every week. It is faster and needs less work than most other composters and it feeds the soil with all waste.
Commercial Composting
It is different from backyard composting and uses different materials. The Compost is made in long rows using materials such as pine bark, sawdust, sand, ferrous sulphate, and maybe some ammonium sulphate all mixed together. It is usually twisted every 3 to 4 days and is generally ready in six weeks for bagging.
It has less nutrient value but there are small independent commercial compost companies that yield a better quality product, than the large commercial compost companies. They are somehow more expensive.
The inexpensive commercial compost is a good filler for higher garden beds or to backfill a Compost in clay or sandy soil. Or it can be used to mix with composted soil to fill garden beds or a pot plant possibly. If you are buying commercial-grade compost to grow plants it is best to buy a high-quality propagation mix.
Mechanical Composting
It is an efficient method that uses electricity to create the heat required and rotation of the contents required to produce semi-composted waste accurately within a 24-hour period.
This system better fits hotels, restaurants, hospitals, motels, kindergartens, schools, and any other large institution creating large amounts of waste. It is a controllable in-house system instead of sending the waste off to dumpsites. One can however need to further compost the waste so it needs someone to collect the leftover matter for further composting in a garden bed or bay system.
There are also small systems that fit for some people in their private residences but they can be quite expensive and will, of course, cost electricity. Like all composters, they too come with some pros and cons, but they do make fast semi-composted soil.
Conclusion
In conclusion, these eight methods you might want to consider using in your home or business. Some are similar, some work better with a combination and some are just different. Either way, composting is quite the best thing you can do for your garden, your business, and the environment.
Most of the damaging effects on the environment originate from the methane produced in large dumpsites or landfills https://thecliment.com/landfill-emissions/.
As compared to CO2, Methane is worse for the environment. Keeping your waste out of the dumpsites reduces methane waste and eventually helps the environment. Composting can help fight climate change. some easy steps to guide how to make compost: https://www.npr.org/2020/04/07/828918397/how-to-compost-at-home
If you have time to grow your own vegetables and utilize your own compost then that is an added bonus. Preferably, we all should play our role in reducing municipal solid waste. How you do that is up to you, but whatever method you choose, do something better than nothing.
